A Guide to the Rolous Group: The Ancient Temples of Hariharalaya

If you are looking for a half-day trip from Siem Reap that will take you back to the origins of the Khmer Empire, you should consider visiting the Rolous Group. These are some of the oldest and most impressive temples in Cambodia, dating back to the 9th century. They are the remnants of Hariharalaya, the second capital of the empire, and the birthplace of classical Khmer art and architecture. In this blog, I will introduce you to the four main temples of the Rolous Group: Bakong, Preah Ko, Lolei, and Prei Monti. I will also give you some tips on how to get there, when to go, and what to expect.

Bakong

Bakong is the largest and most impressive temple of the Rolous Group. It is a five-tiered pyramid with a central tower, surrounded by eight smaller towers and a moat. Bakong was built by King Indravarman I in the late 9th century as the state temple of Hariharalaya. It was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, and also housed a relic of Buddha. Bakong is considered the first temple mountain of its style, and a prototype for later temples such as Angkor Wat. Bakong features beautiful carvings of lions, elephants, nagas, and devatas, as well as inscriptions in Sanskrit and Khmer. You can climb up the stairs to the top level and enjoy a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside.

Preah Ko

Preah Ko is the most beautiful and best preserved temple of the Rolous Group. It consists of six brick towers arranged in two rows, facing east. Preah Ko was built by King Indravarman I in 879 CE, shortly after Bakong. It was dedicated to his ancestors, as well as to the Hindu gods Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. The name Preah Ko means “sacred bull”, and refers to the statues of Nandi, the mount of Shiva, that guard each tower. Preah Ko is known for its exquisite brickwork and plaster decoration, as well as its carved lintels and false doors. The towers are adorned with images of gods, animals, and floral motifs.

Lolei

Lolei is the least visited temple of the Rolous Group, as it is currently under renovation. It is a small temple with four brick towers on a raised platform, surrounded by a laterite wall and a dry moat. Lolei was built by King Yasovarman I in 893 CE, as the last temple of Hariharalaya. It was dedicated to his ancestors, as well as to the Hindu god Shiva. Lolei was originally located on an island in the middle of a large reservoir, called Indratataka, which was also constructed by Yasovarman I. The reservoir has since dried up, and the temple is now part of a modern Buddhist monastery. Lolei has some interesting carvings of male and female figures, as well as inscriptions in Sanskrit and Khmer.

Prei Monti

Prei Monti is the smallest and most secluded temple of the Rolous Group. It is a single brick tower with a sandstone base, located in a forest clearing. Prei Monti was built by King Yasovarman I in the late 9th century, as a private shrine for meditation. It was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, and also contained a statue of Buddha. Prei Monti is a simple and elegant temple, with minimal decoration. It is a peaceful and quiet place, away from the crowds and noise of the other temples.

How to Get There

The Rolous Group is located about 13 km east of Siem Reap, along National Road 6. You can easily get there by tuk-tuk, which you can arrange with your hotel or any driver in town. The ride takes about 20 minutes, and the fare is around $15-$25 for a round trip. You can also rent a bicycle or a motorbike and explore the area on your own, but be prepared for the traffic and the heat. A temple pass is required to visit the Rolous Group, which you can buy at the official ticket office near the entrance to the Angkor Archaeological Park. The pass costs $37 for one day, $62 for three days, or $72 for seven days, and it also allows you to visit all the other temples in the park.

When to Go

The best time to visit the Rolous Group is in the morning, when the temperature is cooler and the light is better for photography. You can also avoid the crowds and enjoy the temples at your own pace. The Rolous Group is open from 7:30 am to 5:30 pm, every day of the year. You can spend about two to three hours exploring the four temples, depending on your interest and energy level. You can also combine your visit with other nearby attractions, such as the Phsar Leu Market, the largest and most authentic market in Siem Reap, or the Phnom Krom, a hilltop temple with a stunning view of the Tonle Sap lake and the sunset.

What to Expect

The Rolous Group is a fascinating and rewarding destination for anyone interested in the history and culture of Cambodia. The temples are not as grand or famous as the ones in Angkor, but they have their own charm and significance. They showcase the early stages of Khmer civilization, and the emergence of a distinctive style of art and architecture. They also offer a glimpse into the lives and beliefs of the ancient kings and their ancestors. The Rolous Group is a place where you can appreciate the beauty and diversity of Cambodia’s heritage, and feel the spirit of the past.